Farewell Almacenes Gonar – Mooching around Spain   I was walking down calle Bravo Murillo in Madrid last week. The street is not on any tourist routes and could never be described as charming or anything – it is certainly not fashionable or cool in any way – but I like it because it’s lined with the kind of unglamorous neighbourhood bars and shops that make Madrid what it is, reflecting the traditional and multicultural communities that live in the…